Fashion Movements - Sustainablity

Hello everyone, today I wanted to talk to you a little bit about how fashion has evolved to become what it is known as today. The environment has recently been a buzzword, particularly within fashion and therefore I thought it would be interesting to see how the fashion industry has arrived at where it is now. There have been multiple movements from 1990 onwards and I think that learning about the past helps to ensure a better future for everyone. I hope you all enjoy...

1990-2000: A Quickening

Due to the 1992 Rio Earth Summit and the formation of the UNFCCC (the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change) there was an urgency to stabilise greenhouse gases, especially during the 1990s, in order to prevent the climate from becoming endangered. However, at the same time the fashion industry was growing due to economic, political and technological changes. China's export-led strategy initiated by Deng Xiaoping (1904-1997) opened the country up to foreign investment. A large impact on globalisation was the development of shipping containers. 94% of countries had ports to receive large shipments by the late 1980s. By 2015 the cost to ship cargo had dropped by 90% in 60 years - a simple sweater could travel 3,000 miles by sea just for a few pence. 

In 1989 the New York Times used the words, 'Fast Fashion' to describe ZARA's 'Quick Response' model, which initially was created for car manufacturing in Japan. The model was adopted to improve efficiencies in fashion manufacturing and supply chains. The Internet accelerated the speed of fashion too. By the end of the millennium a perfect storm was brewing for the fashion industry to become a huge contributor to the environmental crisis.

Katharine Hamnett highlighted in her designs the stark facts about the environmental degradation caused by fashion, but she also showed the human welfare aspects too. As there were 270,000 farmer suicides between 1995 and 2013, caused by desperation due to spiralling repayment costs of pesticides and seeds sold on credit - the collection Hamnett created only used organic cotton. This designer therefore set an early example for others to follow.

Katharine Hamnett's Clean up or Die Jacket

2000-2010: Momentum 

ASOS and Net-a-Porter both opened their online doors in 2000, a defining point in the rise of online shopping. However Marks and Spencer, one of UK's most well known retailers, set out 100 bold, measurable commitments in 2007, in its 'Plan A' initiative. Named because CEO at the time Stuart Rose said, 'there is no Plan B' when it comes to the environment. Aims included: limiting the impact of climate change by using renewable energy and efficient production processes; extending a commitment to fair-trade cotton; supporting farmers and encouraging energy conservation in the care of clothes by customers through the introduction of 'wash at 30 degrees' labels. Post-purchase responsibility shows customers have a critical role in achieving sustainable habits. It all starts with what we buy as well as how we look after and discard clothes.

Whilst the pace sped up to address the urgent need for a more sustainable approach to fashion, ever-cheaper fashion was accelerating, a vivid example of fast fashion was witnessed when Primark launched in 2007 - shoppers were seen trampling over each other for bargains, an iconic image of crazy consumption.

Customers fall over each other in order to buy bargains

2010 Onwards: What has really changed?

By 2010, the call for the fashion industry to address sustainability was rising in volume. In 2011 the Greenpeace 'Detox Campaign' challenged many of the world's most popular fashion brands to eliminate the release of all hazardous chemicals from their production processes. Detoxing fashion continues to be problematic as many brands struggle due to selling outsourced products.

An example of an initiative that has been successful is Fashion Revolution's, 'Who made my clothes?'. This was created in response to the terrible and fatal Rana Plaza collapse back in 2013. Work related deaths of garment workers in developing countries continues, so it is imperative that Fashion Revolution's simple question is now a worldwide campaign. Brands are under much more scrutiny than they have ever been before. Transparency and traceability both have grown in importance for all brands and in the words of Joanna Macy, an environmental activist, this is 'a time of great turning', from a self destructing society to a life-sustaining society. 

Extinction Rebellion 'Die-in' at LFW

Even though there is valuable work going on to demand a better fashion world, the UK’s Fashion Industry is worth £26 billion and provides 800,000 jobs to the economy, making it the UK’s largest creative industry. Completely eradicating fashion from the world isn't a sensible solution, fashion just needs to reinvent itself and become more circular, fairer, sustainable and long-term. If you are interested in fashion or have just been on social media in the past few days you will know that London Fashion Week is in full swing. A few years back I would have wanted nothing more than to be with the people in the front row, however now I would much rather try to change the industry to become more caring and more curious about clothes. After I heard people had protested outside LFW I thought 'WOW this could be change' but I don't know if stopping fashion altogether is the best option, maybe it is, maybe it isn't. Fashion is a huge industry and employes a lot of people who depend on it for their livelihoods. If you want to read more about the 'die-in' that Extinction Rebellion held outside London Fashion Week I recommend this article. 

I think it will take a lot more time for real change to permeate the fashion industry, but changes have started, they just need to increase and continue.

Fashion Revolution's Fanzine

Hope you learnt something new and enjoyed this post! Have an amazing week!

All my love 

Ames 

xxx

Capsule Wardrobe 101

Hey there you lovely bunch! Today I wanted to share with you how I have gone about creating my capsule wardrobe. But before I do, if you are sat there wondering what the heck a capsule wardrobe is, well I can tell you! A 'capsule wardrobe' is a term first used by Susie Faux, the owner of a London boutique called "Wardrobe" in the 1970s. A capsule wardrobe is a collection of a few essential items of clothing such as trousers, skirts, and coats, that won't go out of fashion/you don't fall out of love with. 

“The basic idea is simple: by building a capsule wardrobe you will buy fewer clothes of a higher quality that you will wear more often. You will look and feel confident and successful because the quality will show and because you know that the overall look works.” ~ Susie Faux 

Faux has defined her idea of the core pieces: a jacket, a skirt, trousers, a blouse, a sweater, tights, shoes, a coat, a dress, a bag, and a belt. However, she also mentioned that it will depend on person to person. By creating a capsule wardrobe you will be able to get dressed with ease as well as save time for the things that matter most. Say goodbye to those 'I have nothing to wear' dilemmas we all know too well. 

If you want to a) find your own style/are fed up with what you are wearing, b) be more sustainable or c) actually wear all your clothes follow these 5 simple steps...

1. You don't have to have an exact number, but aiming for 50 or fewer pieces of clothing will be a good start...To begin with if you are a bit of a shopaholic try to be strict on yourself and don't try to fill up your wardrobe as soon as you have emptied it. But give yourself the freedom to evolve over time as you learn what works and what doesn't for you.

2. Begin with a simple clear-out...Limiting your wardrobe to a specific number can help, yet make sure that what you don't want anymore is either donated to charities or used as scraps for cleaning or other purposes - remember that simply throwing away your clothes is not only bad for the environment but a waste of money.

3. Trial the process if you're a bit scared to commit fully...Pick 10 items of clothing that you are going to wear for the week and don't wear anything other than those items. See if you'll be able to do it!

4. Be honest about your lifestyle and what you need from a wardrobe...Don't end up with 'fantasy-life' clothes instead of 'real-life clothes'. 

5. Don't worry about making it perfect...Accept that you won't have the perfect 'Instagramable' wardrobe, but you will have one that is unique to you and makes you feel good inside. Who wants to be perfect anyway, that would be boring!

Hope you guys liked this post, let me know if any of you make a capsule wardrobe! All my love,

Ames xxx

VOGUE - Forces for Change #September Issue

Hey guys hope you are all doing well! Today I wanted to talk to you a little bit about the new issue of Vogue. I would say it has been my favourite issue of Vogue EVER! I think that Edward Enninful and guest editor HRH The Duchess of Sussex has changed the magazine for good...but also for the better! It has had a lot of attention in the media both negative and positive but all I can say is that you need to make your own judgement - by reading it! Personally, I think it was about time that Vogue highlighted sustainable fashion as well as ensuring a diverse range of women were portrayed on its pages. There's so much to cover from the September issue, including interviews with Michelle Obama, Dr Jane Goodall and 15 powerful women who are campaigning for change but let's start off with the new packaging!

1. It is biodegradable 
2. It is made of potato starch 
3. You can use the wrapper as a liner for a food caddy 

I think this is a really important and needed change in all industries - using packaging that isn't going to stay on the planet for hundreds of years is important - a reason why this change away from plastic hasn't been widespread is due to money. It is cheaper to package magazines and groceries with plastic and more expensive to use biodegradable packaging but as more businesses begin to use new ways of packaging, positive change will follow.

As I have just read Michelle Obama's Autobiography 'Becoming' (Book review will be coming soon) I was excited to read HRH The Duchess of Sussex's interview with Michelle. They talk about how growing up is always an ongoing process and how it is important to treat everyone the same, boys and girls alike. The interview is full of honesty and makes you warm to Michelle even more than you already had. If you want to read the whole interview it is on page 266 in Vogue's September Issue.

Dr Jane Goodall, if you haven't heard of her, is a world-famous primatologist and in 1986 began to focus on people and the human issues of conservation. HRH The Duke of Sussex interviews Jane and they talk about how there is much more awareness now surrounding the issues we face as a planet. However, there is a lot more apathy and not as much action that is needed. Her message she tells everyone she meets is that, "every single person makes some impact on the planet everyday" which is so true, we all are responsible and all can help our planet. She still has hope, as she believes the youth and the "indomitable human spirit" will help solve the environmental problems we are facing. Read more on page 183 in Vogue's September Issue.

This issue of Vogue focuses on 15 inspiring women. If you don't have time to read the whole magazine or the 'Forces for Change' article then have a watch of this video where the women talk about their stories. The article starts by mentioning that in 2019 the way to global success is to first attract visibility, then convert visibility in to a platform, then use your platform to effect change, which all the 15 women mentioned have done. Here are a few snippets from the interviews Vogue had with these women.

LAVERNE COX - LGBTQIA+ advocate and actor
Known for many firsts, Laverne Cox has been the first trans person to have a large role on a primetime TV show (Orange is the New Black), the first openly trans gender person to be nominated for an Emmy and the first trans person to win an Emmy for being an executive producer. She is taking this world by storm!

CHRISTY TURLINGTON BURNS - Founder of Every Mother Counts and Model
Once a 'super' model now a 'sometimes' model Christy founded Every Mother Counts in 2010. Maternal morality rates have progressively been getting worse in the US for 30 years as women don't have enough access to care. With Christy's initiative, now the younger generations are fighting for their futures.

JAMEELA JAMIL - Body positivity advocate and actor
Her digital campaign I Weigh was created to go against diet culture, this initiative has not only helped so many people, it has also helped Jameela more than she expected it would.

GEMMA CHAN - Actor
The perception is that it has become easier to make films about minorities or women - but it is actually still really hard. Gemma wants to see a really change in the diversity of the people making decisions in her industry and is advocating for this.

YARA SHAHIDI - Founder of Eighteen x 18 and actor
Yara's main aim is to ensure more young people vote, especially for the 2020 presidential elections - in order to do this her organisation emphasises how politics relate to each and every person in their communities.

GRETA THUNBERG - Climate change activist and student
If you haven't heard of Greta I don't mean to be rude, but you have definitely been living under a rock. She is wanting to change the way we look at the climate and ecological crisis, so that pressure can be put on to those in power to change things. In order to do this she and young people all over the world have been school striking every Friday for the right to a future.

ADWOA ABOAH - Mental health campaigner and model
Setting up Gurls Talk has meant women can talk about mental health, sexuality and education on an online platform. One of Adwoa's goals is to make Gurls Talk reach schools so that girls can have time to talk and be educated on what the curriculum doesn't give them.

JANE FONDA - Political activist and actor
Jane believes having a platform carries with it a responsibility to others, as it can be very effective, when used correctly. She uses her voice to highlight issues that wouldn't otherwise be heard. She thinks it's wonderful how things have changed from when she was starting out in the industry.

RAMILA ALI - Boxer
Being the most decorated female Muslim boxer in history she has brought inspiration to a generation of girls. Originally from Somali, Ramila was a refugee and like many, unsure of her exact age or birthday. She would love to see more female leaders in federations as this will lead to more positive change for women.

FRANCESCA HAYWARD - Royal Ballet principal dancer
Nairobi-born and Worthing-raised Francesca is very proud of the colour of her skin and she is happy that she has inspired people from all backgrounds to try ballet.

JACINDA ARDERN - Prime Minister of New Zealand
Proud of her country and proud of the change that has happened, Jacinda believes that politics is a solution for many issues rather than part of the problem.

SINEAD BURKE - Diversity advocate and lecturer
Sinead's goal is to ensure that a world is created where those who are not considered now, are considered and those who are not heard now, are heard. People shouldn't be excluded.

SALMA HAYEK PINAULT - Women's rights activist, actor and producer
Salma decided to write about her experience of working with the disgraced film producer Harvey Weinstein and the reaction to her piece, 'Harvey Weinstein is my monster too' was humbling for Salma and as a dyslexic, empowering, as she has become confident in her writing skills which has made her feel free.

CHIMAMANDA NGOZI ADICHIE - Author
We praise ambitious men and judge ambitious women. Chimamanda hopes for more stories of women who are strong but not superheros, who don't need to be extraordinary to be admired.

ADUT AKECH - Former refugee and model
Refugees are normal people. Just like everyone else the only difference is that they have been uprooted from their homes out of fear, not choice.

I really enjoyed reading this issue of Vogue as it has covered so many topics and has signalled for important and well overdue change. I hope you all enjoyed this post - I really enjoyed writing it and let me know what you think of the Vogue September Issue!

Lots of Love

Ames ♥

2019 Time to Sustain

Hey there you lovely people!

Today I wanted to start writing again and update you on what I’ve been up too. I've just completed my first year at university studying Fashion Technology and it has been a whirlwind. I LOVE my course (I think it was actually made for me!) as I have had the chance to decide what I want to study, whether that's a module on Ecology or 20th Century Fashion. Throughout first year, I have been conscious of the impacts humans are having on the environment, in particular the damaging format of fast fashion and over consumption. I have learnt a lot and have started to live more sustainably as well as shop ethically or not at all (as a 'make do and mend' mindset is bloody fabulous when it comes to being sustainable). In this blog post I wanted to share with you a few of my simple sustainable tips, because being conscious of our impact on the planet doesn't have to be expensive or hard.

Only buy what you need (or make do with what you have) - when it comes to shopping online or in-store many of us are guilty of buying a brand new outfit for an upcoming event or night out. But it just takes a bit of thinking and creativity to use what you already have by either purchasing some basic pieces for your wardrobe or re purposing. For example, if you have a pair of jeans you love but don't know what top to wear with them, just use a pretty headscarf and tie twice at the front or back for two different styles (if you don't already have a headscarf ask your family first as most grandparents would have some but if not charity shops are your best bet)

Put reusable bags in every bag you own - this saves using plastic bags (and if you still have some, Morrisons and other supermarkets have collection bins where you can deposit your old plastic bags if you no longer want to use them rather than disposing of them in the general waste) and ensures you are never without one if you have to pick something up unexpectedly. 

Make your own cotton pads - disposable cotton pads aren't great for the environment as production requires significant amounts of water and energy so using old T-shirts or cut off fabric from up-cycled tops/bottoms you can make reusable pads that can be washed and used over and over again without having to buy or use new fabric, which tends to be expensive. 

Reduce how much you wash your clothes - research has shown that microfibres and microplastics are in our oceans, further research will highlight the impact these contaminants will have on our planet. Therefore reducing how much you wash your clothes, in advance, will help to avoid an unnecessary amount of mircofibres entering our oceans and being ingested by very important crustaceans and sea plankton. (For more information visit - BBC NEWS)

Use Tupperware or old jars - many households acumulate many boxes and containers over time, so instead of buying cling film/tin foil stick to reusable containers. By doing this you reduce on waste (air tight containers keep leftovers from going off) and once redundent containers like jam jars and pasta sauce jars are re purposed.

I hope you found reading this post useful and if you did let me know in the comments! My blog is going to start becoming more centred around an ethical lifestyle, as well as information on fast fashion and the future of fashion as there are both positives and negatives when it comes to the fashion industry (it provides millions of jobs yet it is a very very polluting industry - I will talk more about this in a future post!)

Have a lovely weekend lots of love 

Ames ♥

Summer Review

Hello you lovely bunch of people long time no write :( Sorry about that but I have just finished my A-Levels and it's been a whirlwind. So I thought I would write a little post about my summer so far and all the bits and bobs I have been up to (the summer after A-levels is honestly one of the best in my opinion because a) you appreciate free time a lot more and b) you just can spend time with the people that mean lots to you before going to uni)...

  

This summer I was lucky enough to go to Italy with my family - it was so so lovely I recommend saving up your pennies and planning a holiday to this country, pronto! I love the window seat on planes and these photos just show how different England is to other countries - the patchwork green grass is just beautiful but then again so was the Italian terracotta buildings. Seeing Pompeii was pretttyyyy amazing yet surreal at the same time, I mean, to think that a natural disaster preserved this place...it's crazy. Also I knew it was a big city but honestly it was way bigger than I expected!

Oh the food in Italy. It was insane I really recommend looking on Tripadvisor for places you can go - but make an effort to visit the small independents (the Italian only speaking are the best!).

Of course the World Cup was going on over summer and I was home for the final which was one of the only times I have ever followed football but I loved how it brought everyone closer - plus beer gardens are the best!

I went to my first weekend music festival Boardmasters. It was honestly such a good weekend I mean there are always dramas here and there but overall I had the best time with the best people! One of my highlights from the weekend was going down to the beach with tropical sunshine and dipping our toes in to the sea - it was lush!

There are so many other memories from going on nights out, a city trip to Liverpool, visit to London for the day with my mum going to the V&A to see the Fashioned from Nature exhibition, walks, lunch dates and lots of good food! 

This summer has been one of the best I have ever had! I hope you all have had an amazing summer too!

All my love 

Ames 

<3

Sweater Weather Tag

Hello you lovely lot!

Today I wanted to do something Christmasy so felt that this tag would be a good idea as it will help us to get to know each other a little bit more ...

1. Favourite candle scent? My favourite is sweat pea but in the winter there is a lovely scent my auntie bought me last year called Frankincense which is so lovely! 

2. Coffee, tea, or hot chocolate? I don't like hot drinks but if I had to choose I would go for a home made hot coco - my grandma makes the best ones

3. What’s the best thing you have ever been given at Christmas? When I was around 4 or 5 we had Christmas at my grandparents and me and my sister were given a pink dolls house and it was the bestest thing ever

4. Which makeup trend do you prefer: dark lips or winged eyeliner? I love dark lips but hate that it makes me look unwell I think I need to keep searching for the right colour! 

5. Best fragrance for Christmas? I think my yearly fragrance which is Ricci Ricci by Nina Ricci or Jo Malone Peony and blush suede (it is such a luxury but so bloody lovely)

6. Favourite Christmas food? The roast potatoes and chocolate log (am I allowed to say two things?)

7. What is autumn weather like where you live? Fab, it is crisp and sometimes icy but I love it because the leaves turn from green to yellow and then you get to spend more quality time with family and it's just a lovely time of the year

8. Most worn sweater? One from a charity shop which is maroon and is from Fruit of the Loom - it is so comfortable and cosy and cost so little

9. Must-have nail polish this fall? A light pink which is opaque enough that you can't see the lunula on your nail bed

10. Football games or jumping in leaf piles? I think both would be fun but I'll chose jumping in leaf piles 

11. Skinny jeans or leggings? Mom jeans?

12. Combat boots or Uggs? Converse?

13. Is pumpkin spice worth the hype? I don't know but I love cinnamon 

14. Favourite Christmas film? This is a horrible question! But I of course love Elf and I also would say Serendipity 

15. What song really gets you into the Christmas spirit? I would say Santa Baby by Ariana Grande or All I want for Christmas is you by Maria Carey 

Love you all heaps 

<3

Clothes Show Live Teaser

Hello I hope you have had a great day! I've just come back from an amazing day at Clothes Show Live and I will tell you more about it tomorrow.

<3

My Autumn Wishlist

Hey guys hope you are all well and enjoying November, I can't believe Christmas is next month eek! 

Recently, I've been having a bit of a 'bloggers block' and haven't really been inspired to write anything. However, I decided to create a Autumn/Winter Wish list seen as I am snuggled up inside and just fancied collaging together a few items that will hopefully inspire some of you...

<3